Your garage door is the largest and heaviest moving object in your home. Its springs and cables are under extreme tension to lift that weight. One wrong move can result in severe injury or death. This guide separates simple DIY fixes from dangerous jobs.

DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REPAIR OR REPLACE broken springs or frayed cables. This is a job for a trained professional only. If you suspect a spring or cable issue, stop and call a pro.

The Likely Cause: This is often a simple power or sensor issue.

The Safe Fix (DIY): First, try the wall-mounted button. If it works, the problem is your remote; replace the batteries. If the wall button also doesn't work, check to see if the garage door opener has become unplugged or if its circuit breaker has tripped.

The Likely Cause: The safety sensors at the bottom of the door are blocked or misaligned.

The Safe Fix (DIY): Check to make sure no object is blocking the sensor's path. If the path is clear, check the two sensors (one on each side). They have small LED lights that should be on and steady. If one is blinking, it's misaligned. Gently adjust its bracket until the light becomes solid, then test the door again.

The Likely Cause: The moving parts (hinges, rollers, and springs) are dry and need lubrication.

The Safe Fix (DIY): Purchase a spray lubricant specifically designed for garage doors (a lithium-based grease is best). Do NOT use WD-40, which can attract dust. With the door closed, spray all hinges, rollers, and the springs to quiet them down.

The Likely Cause: The 'travel limits' on your opener are set incorrectly, or something is physically obstructing the door's path.

The Safe Fix (DIY): First, check the door's track for any debris or foreign objects. If the track is clear, consult your opener's manual to learn how to reset the open and close travel limits. This usually involves pressing a few buttons on the motor unit.

The Likely Cause: The rubber weather seal (astragal) at the bottom of the door is worn out, compressed, or torn.

The Safe Fix (DIY): You can buy a replacement weather seal at a home improvement store. The old one usually slides out of a track on the bottom of the door. This can be a two-person job but is a safe and effective way to seal your garage.

The Likely Cause: One of the rollers has popped out of the metal track, or the track itself is bent. The door may look crooked.

The Fix (CALL A PRO): This is a dangerous situation. A door off its tracks can fall. Do not try to force it or move it. This requires a professional to safely reset the door and repair the track.

The Likely Cause: A car impact, storm damage, or age-related rot (on wood doors).

The Fix (CALL A PRO): A single damaged panel can sometimes be replaced. A professional can order a matching panel and install it, which is much cheaper than a full door replacement. If the damage is extensive, they will likely recommend a new door.

The Likely Cause: You have a broken torsion spring. This is the large spring (or pair of springs) above the door. The opener is not designed to lift the full weight of the door—the spring does 90% of the work.

The Fix (CALL A PRO IMMEDIATELY): This is the most common and most dangerous garage door problem. The springs are under extreme tension. Replacing them is not a DIY job. Call a professional.

The Likely Cause: Age, rust, and wear have caused the steel lift cables (usually on the sides) to snap or fray.

The Fix (CALL A PRO IMMEDIATELY): This is a critical failure. These cables work with the springs to lift the door. Like the springs, they are under high tension and extremely dangerous to handle. Do not touch them.

The Likely Cause: Your springs are old, worn out, or broken. A properly balanced garage door should be light enough to lift with one hand when you disconnect it from the opener (by pulling the red emergency cord).

The Fix (CALL A PRO): This is a clear sign your springs have failed. A professional needs to adjust or replace them to re-balance the door.